Places covered in this article: Lagos and its attractions. This is the third article in the series – Portugal: The European Utopia! Read the articles on Porto and Lisbon here.
“If there is one portion of Europe which was made by the sea more than another, Portugal is that slice, that portion, that belt. Portugal was made by the Atlantic.”
Hilaire Belloc
Picture yourself on a cliff besides the ocean. The warm seaside breeze is rejuvinating, the soft grass under your feet is as soothing as a cashmere blanket. You can hear the waves crashing on the beach beneath, birds singing in the vicinity and winds gushing through the backwoods. The blue sky above meets the Atlantic on a distant horizon; they share a similar hue – the water sporting a dark emrald tint, the sky spread across an azure ubuquity! Well, welcome to Lagos, dear reader, Portugal’s riverine hamlet! Lagos is one of the most cozy and pensive towns in Portugal, and this medieval burg has to be in your itinerary if you are planning a trip to Europe’s westernmost nation.
Lagos was our third destination in Portugal, following Porto and Lisbon. After spending ample days exploring these cities, I was in search of something complacent – and Lagos hit the spot just right! We spent 2 days here, and I believe that was enough to see the place around and experience most of the things it has to offer.
Portugal is an alluring concoction – while Porto is the cultural capital and Lisbon its contemporary elder sibling, Lagos is the laidback coastal town, void of all the hustle and bustle. Located around 300 kilometre south of Lisbon, it is well connected by rail and bus.
Thanks to its pristine natural beauty, coupled with a beautiful medieval downtown, I fell in love with Lagos the moment I saw it. Oh, and there is another thing – this town possesses an unbelievably mellow way of life! This is a place where you better loosen up a little – don’t hurry or run; just stay back, walk slowly, and let the town do the talking. So come, take a stroll with us in the hypnagogic town of Lagos!
Did you know? – Lagos is an ancient maritime town with more than 2000 years of history. In fact, the name ‘Lagos’ comes from a Celtic settlement, derived from the Latin ‘Lacobriga’ which was established during the pre-Punic civilisations (before 264 B.C.).
- The beaches of Lagos
- Take a tour of the renowned cliffs
- Exploring downtown Lagos
- Benajil caves – a reason to come back!
- Strolls along the Lagos Marina
The beaches of Lagos
Characterised by flanking rocky cliffs, hidden coves, and white sand, Lagos is home to many beaches that are simply perfect! The best part about exploring the beaches here is that you will find most of them clustered around in a fairly small (and literally walkable) area!
We reached Lagos by late evening. After spending a night in a rather pocket-friendy €12/night backpackers’ hostel, in the morning, we walked just about a kilometre to reach the Duna beach (also known locally as Praia de Alvor beach). With a scintillating waterfront (and in our case, not a cloud in the sky), its white sands stretching as far as the eye can see and the rhythmic melody of waves, the Duna Beach offers a tranquil escape. Whether you’re lounging beneath the warm sun, indulging in water sports, or simply taking contemplative walks along the shore, this pristine beach embodies the essence of relaxation and coastal charm.
Of all the seaside towns I have seen, Lagos boasts a distinct ardour – on one side of the town, you can find the serene Duna beach, exuding equanimity; just walk a kilometre along the coast (on the other side of the Bensafrim river) and you will come across rocky structures and amongst them, some fine secluded beaches that are one of a kind!
The stunning rock formations of the Dona Ana beach (not to be confused with the aforementioned Duna beach – Dona Ana beach is on the south of Bensafrim river, Duna beach is to the north) form an incredibly privileged setting as there are no words to describe the colossal beauty of the landscape. The beach owes its name to the nun Ana, who lived in the nunnery of Lagos. During World War I, soldiers invaded the convent and incarcerated all the nuns, except D. Ana, who managed to flee through a tunnel that linked the convent to the beach.
In 2013, the Spanish magazine ‘Condé Nast Traveler’ considered this beach as the best beach in the world and the most beautiful beach in Portugal; TripAdvisor in 2015 did the same. This beach definitely deserves to be on your itinerary. I was taken aback by the sublime rocky features here – the pass-through tunnels that lead from one beach to the next, the beautiful sands and the golden rocky cliffs provide some spectacular views!
Travel tips – Most beaches here are ‘Blue Flag’ beaches, meaning they have all the facilities you need – restaurants, restrooms and proper access via a boardwalk.
Take a tour of the renowned cliffs
The town of Lagos beckons travellers to discover its most cherished gem – the dramatic cliffs that frame its coastline. In Lagos, according to me, beaches and cliffs are inseparable. After taking in the stunning visuals from the Dona Ana beach, we embarked on a leisurely walk towards the breathtaking Praia do Pinhão.
Many of the cliffs here are not named. So, just walk south of Praia do Pinhão towards Praia dos Pinheiros; and if one is particularly adventurous, further down towards Ponta da Piedade. This is an experience that effortlessly blends natural beauty and coastal allure. As we treaded the well-worn paths that wind their way atop the rugged cliffs, we were treated to panoramic vistas that extend as far as the eye can see. The azure waters of the Atlantic Ocean stretch out endlessly, their waves caressing the golden beaches below.
Whether you’re an intrepid solo traveller seeking solitude or someone in search of romantic vistas, these cliffs cater to every wanderer’s dream. With every step, the salty sea breeze carries hints of adventure, inviting you to explore hidden coves and secret beaches nestled amidst the cliffs’ embrace. The warm sunlight dances upon the cliffs’ weathered edges, creating an ever-changing tapestry of colours and shadows. Seabirds glide gracefully on the currents, their calls echoing in harmony with the crashing waves.
Best time to travel? Due to to its temperate weather, Lagos is a great attraction for most part of the year – summers are particularly hot and winters provide pleasant weather.
Before we knew, it was almost evening. As the sun began its descent, it became clear that a walk along these cliffs is not just a journey through geography, but a passage through time itself – an intimate connection between the land, sea, and soul.
Exploring downtown Lagos
After spending enough time in the lap of nature – exploring the remarkable beaches and cliffs, it was time to hang about in the mellow Lagos downtown! Nestled in the heart of the Algarve region, downtown Lagos welcomes travellers with its charismatic blend of history, culture, and coastal charm. As I stepped into this vibrant enclave, it is as if I was transported back in time, wandering through narrow cobblestone streets that whisper tales of bygone eras.
Travel tips – Most of places in Lagos can be reached on foot. However, in case you need to travel by public transport, make sure you check Portugal’s tourism board website. Often times, there is information on availability of tickets and passes! Regarding other activities in the Algarve region, you can also find the information here.
The historic center, reminiscent of the city’s rich maritime legacy, boasts an array of architectural treasures, including the iconic ‘Forte da Ponta da Bandeira’. Its intricate detailing and commanding presence pay homage to Portugal’s seafaring heritage.
Meandering through the picturesque lanes, you’ll stumble upon inviting cafes, boutique shops, and local markets that come alive with the aromas of traditional Portuguese cuisine.
The magnetic energy of downtown Lagos is palpable as you discover hidden plazas adorned with charming fountains, like the lively Praça Gil Eanes, where locals and visitors converge to share stories and savour life’s simple pleasures.
Beyond its historical allure, downtown Lagos offers a gateway to natural wonders that seamlessly merge with urban landscapes. Just a stone’s throw away lie the enchanting beaches, where the golden sands meet crystalline waters. As you relax under the warm sun, the sight of vibrant fishing boats bobbing gently in the harbour paints a timeless scene. Whether you’re delving into the captivating Lagos downtown or taking a leisurely stroll along the scenic waterfront promenade, Lagos encapsulates the essence of Portugal’s coastal charm and offers a captivating blend of historical resonance and contemporary vitality.
After spending hours strolling the coasts and the city centre, we decided to head back to the hostel to call it a day. For the following day, we planned to visit the Benajil caves, post which we had in our mind to explore the marina area, before leaving for Faro later that evening.
Day 1 in Lagos was enchanting, exciting and honestly, we were ecstatic! Day 2, looking forward to it!
Where to stay in Lagos? – Lagos provides remarkable choices in terms of hotels, resorts, and budget hostels. Travellers with all budgets can easily find many options to stay in the downtown. However, if it is solitude you are after, check the resorts alongside the Porto Mos Beach. These have, by far, the best sunset view!
Benajil caves – a reason to come back!
We started the next day quite pumped up – it was the day we finally would visit the renowned Benajil caves!
I had read a lot of these stunning caves – a realm of wonder and enchantment that awaits beneath the sun-soaked cliffs of Lagos! Benagil Caves are a natural masterpiece that beckon with its mesmerising beauty. Carved by the relentless embrace of the Atlantic Ocean over millennia, these caves are a testament to the raw power of nature’s artistry. The crown jewel is the cathedral-like dome of the main cave and an opening that allows sunlight to cascade in, casting a celestial glow upon the turquoise waters below. One can paddle or cruise into the heart of this geological marvel only to find yourself immersed in a world that blends geological history with awe-inspiring aesthetics!
After breakfast, when we reached the waterfront, however, we were greeted by a not-so-great news. The winds were picking up, and by the time we reached the pier to board a ferry which would take us to Benagil caves, the waters had become choppy. This meant we could not go to the caves on this particular day. There are many private ferry operators which take you to Benagil caves from the Lagos pier. On a good day, any traveller would have a ton of options – with varying itineraries and a variety of travel packages which club Benagil caves along with other watersport activities. Unfortunately though, the weather was expected to stay gusty for the rest of the week, which meant that, with a heavy heart, we had to abandon our plan to visit the caves.
Now, I am not new to adversities like this while travelling. While it does seem to be a setback if taken on the face value, I prefer to see it as an excuse to visit Lagos again, some day!
Travel tips – Many travel operators also show around other cave structures in the area. Overall, this is a 4-5 hour tour. Make sure to consult a couple of operators before you finalise a deal. The prices vary depending on the season.
Strolls along the Lagos Marina
I would be lying if I said we weren’t disappointed not to have gotten a chance to see the Benagil caves. But alas – a traveller can’t be let down! While we came out of the ferry operator’s office, the marina’s symphony of bobbing sailboats and yachts offered a sense of escapism from this recent affliction.
It is as if the Lagos marina was created to cheer you up! As you amble along the promenade, the vibrant colors of the vessels contrast against the azure sky, mirroring the lively energy of the town itself. This is a place where time seems to slow down, allowing you to savour each step and soak in the captivating views that unfold before you.
The marina’s allure extends beyond its scenic vistas; it’s a hub of activity where maritime charm meets modern comfort. Intimate cafes and waterfront bistros beckon, offering a chance to savour Portugal’s culinary delights while gazing at the gently swaying boats. As the sun casts a warm glow over the marina, we found ourself drawn to the sense of camaraderie that pervades the area. Locals and visitors alike converge here, sharing stories of their day’s adventures and basking in the shared love for the seas!
We spent a couple of hours strolling in the marina; early that evening, we had to board our train to our next, and final destination – Faro. The marina is the best place (after the beaches and cliffs, of course) to end the day. The cool breeze soothes you, and the warm chatter of locals and fishermen make it a very lively and amicable place! I was awestuck by what Lagos had to offer. The surreal coastline, the festive aura and the opulent history all seem to come together similar to how the ocean meets the sky on the horizon – graciously, yet strikingly, in a genteel manner, yet with a touch of affluence!
Because of the time constraint, we could not visit some places in Lagos in this trip. If you are planning a trip to Lagos, maybe you can keep aside some time for these.
- In our 2 days in Lagos, we could not travel to the west of Ponta da Piedade. While this area is does not have easy and direct connectivity to the town, it might still interest those craving for quiet coastlines!
- One can also hire a mountain bike to see all cliffs and beaches in Lagos. Though we didn’t try that, I am sure the experience will be worth it for any adventurous wayfarer!
Cobblestone Chronicles 
Leave a comment